Should I paint Warhammer models before or after building them?
Build first and paint after for most infantry. Paint a part on its own when another part would hide it, or when it is a different colour from what surrounds it. Examples are an arm across a chest, a two-handed weapon or a vehicle's interior. Do not prime a whole sprue before you cut it.
A painting handle holds small parts while you paint. The Citadel Painting Handle (Mk2) is £6.52 (in stock).
When to paint in pieces
| The model | Paint first? | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Standard infantry with open poses | No, build it whole | Your brush can reach nearly everything, and a join you leave unpainted is a join that holds. |
| Arms or a two-handed weapon crossing the chest | Yes, leave the arms off | You cannot reach the chest behind them once they are glued on. |
| A head in a different colour from the armour | Yes | It is far easier to paint a head on a handle than to cut in around it. |
| Vehicles with guns and an interior | Yes, in sections | Hobbyists paint the hull, guns and crew separately, then join them. |
| Four-legged creatures | Yes, leave them off the base | You can paint the underside first, then glue the model down and finish the top. |
If your brush can reach it, build first. On a squad of five or ten that is a good rule. Sub-assemblies multiply the work across every model, so save them for characters and vehicles.
Why priming the sprue backfires
Priming everything on the frame sounds like a shortcut. In practice:
- You cut the sprue, so every gate leaves bare plastic, and you have to prime again.
- Plastic glue will not bond through primer, so every join needs scraping bare.
- Primer rubs off on your fingers while you clean up mould lines.
To prime awkward spots first, one hobbyist holds the pieces together with Blu-Tack instead of glue. Then prime, take them apart and paint. That keeps the joins clean.
Something to hold the parts
A painting handle keeps a sub-assembly steady while you work. Games Workshop's list of painting kit includes one "for keeping your models secure". We list the Citadel Painting Handle (Mk2) (£6.52, in stock) and the XL handle (£9.68, in stock).
Gluing parts you have already painted
- Scrape the paint or primer off both contact faces down to bare plastic.
- Dry fit the parts to check the join still closes with the paint scraped off.
- Glue and hold. Our page on plastic glue and superglue covers which to use.
- Touch up the scar with a thin coat of the base colour.
One unit or the whole army first?
Games Workshop's painting team gives different advice to builders and to painters. If you love building, do not build every unit at the start. Build one, paint it to a basic standard, then build the next as a treat. If you find building a chore, do the opposite: build as many units as you can while your enthusiasm is high, so you can paint without clippers hanging over you. Either way, keep unpainted models away from your painting desk.
Common questions
Can I prime the sprue before cutting the parts off?
It backfires. Every cut leaves bare plastic you must prime again, and glue will not bond through primer. Cut and clean the parts first, then prime.
Is it fine to paint after gluing even if some bits are hard to reach?
For most infantry it is. A few hidden areas stay dark, and shadow usually hides them at tabletop distance.
How do I paint a head a different colour from the armour?
Leave the head off and paint it on a painting handle, then glue it on. Scrape the neck joint bare first so the glue bonds.
Do I need a sub-assembly holder?
A painting handle helps with small parts, but you can manage without one. The Warhammer Painting Handle is £3.32 (in stock), and the Citadel Sub-Assembly Holder is £6.32 (sold out at the moment).
Build and paint order: Games Workshop, How to paint an entire company of Space Marines, 18 July 2025. Painting handle: Games Workshop, Hobby at Home, 12 October 2020. Sub-assembly and priming experience: hobbyist replies in r/Warhammer40k threads, 2026. Prices and stock: this shop, read live.